Archive for Guerneville

Chapter 26: Guerneville

Posted in zin sins Part Two: False Hope with tags on February 16, 2010 by zinsins

 

Shaun loaded up a day pack with two loaves of French bread and a bottle of rare, old pinot noir from a winery not far from Guerneville.  Before the two hopped in their cars for the winding drive inland to the redwood park, Shaun told Bobby to stop in Guerneville so they could grab a block of cheese.  The town was nestled five miles downstream from the upland redwood grove.

When Bobby reached Guerneville and the small health food store tucked into part of the town’s commercial district, Shaun was emerging from the store.

“I didn’t know this was going to be a road rally to the redwoods.”

“I know that stretch of road like the back of my hand.  Ready to go?”

“I want to run in and get a mineral water.”

“Meet you at the park.  I’ll have everything ready.”

Bobby came out of the store, his bottle of mint-flavored geyser water in hand.  When he threw back his head to pour the cold, sparkling water down his throat, he saw one of Guerneville’s firefighters high up on the utility company’s cherry picker.  The fireman was carefully placing one of several dozen Christmas decorations on a light pole.  Bobby gazed at the little ceremony, then walked across the street to join a group of bystanders whose attention had been drawn to the rite.  At the base of the pole an elderly woman was placing a wooden sign naming the civic organization responsible for the decoration.  The decoration wasn’t one of those sets of red and white lighted plastic bells that adorn many of urban America’s main streets, for it was of nature, the top of a local fir tree that had been trimmed and decorated by a local group.  Bobby looked down the street at the other decorations.  The ornaments were clusters of wild holly berries, or small bells and stars shaped from tin foil, or red bows tied into interesting shapes.  Each decoration was different, each unique.

Bobby’s gaze was diverted by the singing of carolers down the street in front of the town’s bookstore.  It so contradicted Bobby’s conceptualization of this odd little town – carolers in Guerneville? – that he found himself drawn to the music like a magnet.  Bobby joined the multitude gathered to hear a band of twelve disciples from a local church sing what were for him the first Holiday carols of the season.

In the group of a dozen singers was what he believed to be the perfect cross-section of that crazy town.  There was the choral director, a woman in a rust-colored, double-knit pantsuit, who would have had white hair except that she dyed it red.  From her animated way of playing the guitar while she cajoled her group to belt out another verse, it seemed obvious to Bobby that she was the aging third-grade teacher at the Guerneville school.  He could be wrong.

In the choral group were the other slices of the Guerneville pie.  There was the young earthy woman in homemade clothes, with no make-up on and a cute baby in her stroller, representing many of the women who had created homes and families up in the surrounding isolated forest hills.  There was the short, white-haired grandmother, hair pulled back tightly in a bun held by a band of real holly berries, who reminded Bobby of a smaller version of his late grandmother.  There was the heavy-set Chicano woman in an authentic peasant dress who strummed along on her family-heirloom guitar.

And there was the rather ordinary middle-aged man with moustache, one of those big, bushy moustaches that so many men who have them hide behind, whom Bobby hypothesized was one of the many who escaped The City by being washed up on the shores of the town beach.  There were the two gays with the required close-cropped hair, obviously partners, who must have enjoyed church as youngsters when they grew up in a small town like Wally and The Beave’s, but who had fled to The City to avoid the fate of leading a double life – or half a life.  Then they discovered Guerneville with its pace so much slower than that of The City, and it became the substitute for the hometowns they had left.  The shorter of the two, the Jerry-Mathers look-alike, sang with an unmatched, uncapped effervescence, as if he hadn’t sung Christmas carols for some time.

Bobby turned and looked at the faces of the audience.  There were more canyon ladies, in town to make their sporadic forays for essential food items that they couldn’t grow up on the hills.  Their babies were held tight to their breasts in canvas papooses.  At their sides were their bearded and spectacled husbands, escaped physicists or some such, with their hands callous from chopping wood for their cast-iron stoves.

Bobby examined the people on the periphery of the crowd.  There was a portly red-faced man with a neat Van Dyke beard and in his grip were the handlebars of an ancient bright-red bicycle.  Far behind the man, alone, was an attractive woman leaning against an old VW, her chin resting on its discolored roof.  Unknown to Bobby, she was the woman who ran the herb and stationary shop out of the tiny house behind the hardware store.  She held her place well behind the rest of the audience, and on her face was the most distant smile Bobby had ever seen.  He wondered what was going through that mind:  Were they clear thoughts of childhood – as virgin as her clear, makeup-free complexion – or were they muddled as she tried to reason how those naïve childhood days of Christmas bliss could have faded into such obscure memories?  No matter what, she appeared to be on the verge of tears, causing Bobby to continue his secret study of her.

He wondered if she wished for a return to those simple days of adolescence when she would bake Christmas cookies with her mother as they listened to the Perry Como Singers harmonize on those same tunes.  Or was she sad because of all the unfortunate experiences that had occurred in the post-adolescent years, those years when the growing pains were almost unbearable, when life suddenly became so complicated as to be unthinkable, and how those events were like fallen trees now that blocked her from ever returning to the days when she was a happy, albeit naïve suburban child in LA or St.  Louis or wherever?  If only he could see into her mind and live just that fraction of her life that she was flashing before her eyes, then he would surely be able to cry with her, or hold her as she released those feelings that only she knew about.  But he knew that her sharing with him what she was reliving was not meant to be; he just couldn’t walk up to her and say, “Explain.”  So he removed his eyes from her and looked above the decorations and Main Street and up into the ever-present hills. 

It was a brisk, cool afternoon by then, and low, pink patches of fog were moving in from the west.  Sunset was still more than two hours off, yet the sun already had hidden itself behind a redwood-lined ridge of one of the hills that stood over Guerneville and made it such a reclusive, odd little speck on the earth.  As he walked back to his car, he tried to pigeon-hole the scene in his memory.  He momentarily stopped and turned for a final look at the carolers.  He was being serenaded with the song, “Oh Little Town of Bethlehem.”  He felt very warm inside.  And the thought occurred to him:  Living back here in The Valley on the ranch, first at Daniel’s place and now alone in Janie’s house, he had turned into something of a recluse.  He hadn’t had a television in his home since his move back, so he hadn’t seen the Budweiser beer wagon being pulled through the snow by Clydesdales once that holiday season.  Yet to him as he stood there on the sidewalk in Guerneville, it still felt – perhaps it had never felt – so much like Christmas.

Chapter 23: The Coast

Posted in zin sins Part Two: False Hope with tags , on January 28, 2010 by zinsins

 

That’s what Bobby thought about most when he went to the coast – the drive.  The trek, despite its beauty, always had held the stigma in his mind of being a test of endurance.  It was a stigma developed in childhood.

His mother had not seen the coast since Bobby was eleven.  He remembered Janie’s – their – last trip vividly.  Jeremy was driving the family out in his new Cadillac convertible to hunt for abalone at low tide.  A perfect Sunday outing.  But when the family had rounded the hundredth-odd curve and finally beheld the first glimpse of the Pacific, little Tobie, unable to contain his car sickness any longer, threw up in a “world-class” heave on the back of his father’s head.  This immediately set off a chain reaction among the other queasy passengers in Jeremy’s rocking boat.  Jeremy deftly pulled over at a scenic turnoff, and the entire family returned their smoked-salmon sandwiches to the sea.  The barnacle that refused to pry off that whale of a memory in Bobby’s mind was the drive back, and how he had dreaded it on the beach that long-ago afternoon.

His father took mercy on the motley crew and had driven at a snail’s pace on the long trip home.  Bobby remembered the immense logging truck tailgating his father, who had no place to pull over on the narrow, winding road to let the logger pass.  The impatient trucker finally swung around Jeremy on a long, blind curve.  Bobby remembered his father’s reaction:  Jeremy went totally berserk.  He pulled up behind the trucker and honked and flashed his lights.  Realizing the insignificance of those actions on the giant rig, Jeremy sped alongside the truck, came up off his seat and, in the open air of the convertible with three terrified, screaming children and his wife beside him, proceeded to shout and gesture at the driver in the worst language Bobby had ever heard.  Bobby remembered it being the first time he had ever seen his father openly hostile or angry.

The logger had apparently heard of vehicular manslaughter because he complacently observed Jeremy’s diatribe and slowed, and the family survived the ordeal.  But on that day Bobby and Daniel christened Jeremy’s Caddy The Titanic, and the Sunday outing was forever referred to as “Voyage of the Damned.”

Bobby found the ride so different on his trip to see Shaun.  It really was a beautiful drive.  The route wandered through The Valley toward the coastal highlands.  The view for the first fifteen miles was spectacular.  The vineyards fanned out in neat rows before the rising sun.  The large plain — the last true valley before The River veered to the west into the redwood-covered hills — held 75-year-old plantings of zinfandel and obscure Italian grapes.  An early morning fog hung over The River in the distance.  It looked like a suspended cotton snake winding its way through the vines.

Bobby passed the ranches – not true working ranches, more retirement estates – owned by the former stars of Perry Mason, M*A*S*H, and My Three Sons.  Bobby wondered what involuntary reflex caused him to rubberneck when he passed by, and if he’d pay the same attention to the hideaways of the inventor of the micro-chip, the modem or the ah-so.

The vines abruptly gave way to a grand entrance of redwoods rising from hills eroded by the anxious river.  Day versus night.  The canopy of tall trees darkened the sky, the temperature dropped a half-dozen degrees, and the air smelled of evergreen spice.  It was the distant outpost to Shaun’s fortress by the sea.

The road curved tightly beside The River, hop scotching over it when the steep banks fell straight to the water.  At times the forest would open upon a small clearing and the size and density of the tree-covered hills could be seen.  Ten miles into the redwoods, Bobby approached the only stop sign on the road that linked his valley to the ocean.  It stood in the middle of the town of Guerneville.

Guerneville and Bobby’s valley were located in the same county, but he thought they could just as soon have been on different planets with as much as the two had in common.  Guerneville was a tiny town tucked in the coastal redwoods that had suffered from exploitation and identity crises since its inception.  It had prospered at the turn of the century on what was a new principle of the lumber companies:  “Conquer, then divide.”  The lumber concerns had pillaged the area of almost all its best first-growth redwoods – trees up to 300 feet high – before the appetite for lumber in The City drove them northward.  The lumber companies then sold the ravaged land in small parcels as vacation-home lots to the upper middle class of San Francisco.  Guerneville’s popularity as a summer retreat grew – until the Era of Mobility arrived in the 1950s.  The freeway and the airplane made the area’s charm pale to that of other areas that were only a half-day’s ride (or flight) away.  Guerneville wasn’t in the same league with Lake Tahoe or Yosemite or Hawaii.  So the paint began to peel and fade.

In the late-‘60s the walls began to crumble.  The area became a cheap place to hang out for bikers and flower children.  And crime skyrocketed.  Anything went, anytime.  Formerly pleasant subdivisions were renamed with titles like “Heroin Hill.”  A decade later the burgeoning gay community in The City discovered the quaint spot hidden in the redwoods where tolerance was king and non-conformity, queen.  Although the town that Bobby drove through was still mostly Keasy-generation hangers-on, the place had gained a reputation as being the Fire Island of California, the West Coast gay Mecca.

Bobby thought that superficially, Guerneville seemed like any other small north coast lumber town.  The new residents were pumping some needed money into refurbishing much of Guerneville’s dilapidated downtown.  But even a quick recognizance turned up the incongruities:  An old man with Rip Van Winkle beard sitting in a doorway playing the accordion to his audience – a pair of arthritic Dalmatians; a “Poodle Lines” vacation charter bus unloading a platoon of close-cropped young recruits at a local gay resort; a middle-aged hitchhiker wearing her pink-tinted granny glasses, gauze dress, and on her legs what resembled designer ace bandages.

Just as soon as Bobby had begun to play deluxe highway bingo with the unique characters, he was out of town and again into the redwoods that cloaked the fleeing river.

Eventually the canopy gave way once more, the road flattened out, and the forest opened upon the grass-covered headlands.  The River was a wide aquamarine expanse, and hundreds of sheep stood motionless in the gently rolling fields at its banks.  The air took on the crisp, salty bite of the sea.  At last the tidelands came into view, and the white-streaked rock at the mouth of The River rose up in the mist.

The journey seemed to be over – Shaun’s café was only fifteen miles north of The River’s mouth, but those fifteen miles were a stretch of climbing, curving road that at one point hugged a high cliff more than 1,400 feet above the surf-line.  From the scenic outlook above the cliff, on a clear night the lighthouses in the two adjoining counties could be seen, a distance from point to point of 80 miles.

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